Showing posts with label The Sartorialist. Show all posts
Showing posts with label The Sartorialist. Show all posts

Monday, May 9, 2011

"Only Think About Your Tie When You Buy The Next One"

I don't always agree with the stuff that comes out of Scott Schuman's mouth, but his recent treatise on Italian style for GQ UK is pretty great.  Despite what you think about Italian style bombarding the blogosphere as of late, Scott and his blog have served as an advocate for this stuff since The Sartorialist's inception in 2005.  Whether or not Scott is an expert I will leave up to you, but there is not denying the wisdom of a man who has worked closely with the men who embody a particular aesthetic.  The bit about taking a little extra time when shopping and getting alterations done is particularly poignant.

"A lot has been written about 'Italian style'. A number of 'facts' have been detailed: the Agnelli-isms of unbuttoned shirt collars, unbuckled monkstrap shoes, ties over the sweater - your general sprezzatura minutiae. But when it comes down to it, these things border on gimmick. To me, that's not really about what Italian style is about, or what people relate to in my photographs.

What I think people are actually aspiring to is something much trickier to attain. It's the same kind of thing that you've seen in all classic menswear icons, most perfectly embodied by Cary Grantand Fred Astaire. It's grace.

Why people react to Italian style is the grace with which these gentlemen inhabit their clothes.

Now, some people will discredit this and call it 'effortless style', or write it off by saying, 'These Italians are just born with it.'

But it's quite the opposite. There is nothing effortless about their style, or their look. What's unique is that they put an extreme amount of effort into their look when they buy the clothes, when they have the clothes altered by their tailor, and when they put them on in the morning.

But once they put them on, they don't think about them until they take them off again at night. It's that graceful thoughtlessness that is so seductive.

Do me a favour. Look at these photos [below]. Look at the shoulder line. Look at how relaxed these guys are. Their shoulders aren't uptight and around their ears. These guys are having fun.

Then take a look at your typical Saville Row-tailored gent. Refined (read: restrained) to within an inch of his life, shoulders straight as a board and typically looking like they're having as much fun as an American wearing a suit.

If there is one piece of advice that I could give to someone who wants to embody, in their own way, the very best of Italian style, it would be: take an extra half an hour when buying the clothes, and extra half an hour at the tailor to make sure they perfectly fit you, and an extra half an hour in the morning to make sure you are confident in your choices.

Then think about food, think about women, think about cars - and only think about your tie when you buy the next one."


Thursday, January 6, 2011

The Sartorialist's Visual Life

Hey you.  Stand still for a second.  I'm falling in love with you.  Shhh. Shhh.  Don't ruin the seduction.  Just let it happen.


Thursday, July 22, 2010

How To Make It In The Blogosphere

Scotty "Front Row" McFatstacks schools you on how to Scrooge McDuck this blog shit.  Show me the internet money!


Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Debate: A Case Of Disheveled Elegance vs. Sloppiness


[Picture courtesy of The Sartorialist.]

I saw this picture earlier today and I found myself perplexed about why this guy was photographed in the first place.  I understand that Mr. Schuman is all about photographing classic examples of sprezzatura, or disheveled elegance, but this specific case seems to cross over into the realm of sloppy.  It's almost as if this dude was hanging out at his apartment in jeans and a white tee only to remember he had to hit up a fashion show so he threw on a cardigan (waistcoat?) and a sportcoat.  And he didn't even bother to tuck his t-shirt in either.  If I was this guy the initial jeans and a tee would have been fine, but then again I'm not getting invited to exclusive fashion cult gatherings.  Thoughts? Cool casual elegance or straight up sloppiness?


Friday, January 8, 2010

The Half Tuck

[Pictured (second from left): Save Khaki's David Mullen demonstrates how to properly rock "the half tuck" in the pages of GQ.]

To say the half tuck is complicated is an understatement.  When done right you are a styling chap with just the right amount of sprezzatura and when done even a tad bit wrong you're a living, breathing Old Navy mannequin.  I wish there were some concrete rules to this advanced sartorial move, but alas not a single one is firmly established.

The half tuck is truly a shot in the dark as far as I am concerned; sometimes it works and sometimes it fails...hard.  Someone may be able to tell you exactly why, but definitely not me.  I have found that the best way to go about half tucking to to give it a go and then to inspect the results before you head out the door (not too thoroughly because that would defeat the purpose.  In fact, maybe this entire post is defeating the purpose). If it works you will know and if it doesn't simply decide to go all in or all out.

Over time you may develop a Jedi like "feel" for the half tuck and who knows, it may even become natural someday.  Regardless, the whole "perfectly imperfect" thing is highly coveted by many stylish cats due in part to how tough it is to actually pull off correctly.  If you don't subscribe to the half tuck and prefer a look much more put together I don't blame you.  There truly is a time and a place for everything.  Maybe the half tuck's is when getting shot by The Sartorialist...




[Pictured (above and below): The half tuck's cousin, the front tuck]


Friday, December 18, 2009

Double Monks Done Right

I've been lamenting the loss of a pair of Ralph Lauren double monk shoes (seen above) on Gilt since Wednesday and if you follow me on Twitter you've heard me soliciting recommendations for an affordable pair.  The RL's were there for the taking and I dropped the ball.  Double monk shoes are possible the most elegant, wonderful shoes a guy can own, but they are usually price out of what I'm willing to spend.  Not to mention they are a rare style so it's not everyday I can get my hands on a pair.  Since I'm currently still in mourning, I figured I'd throw up some examples of double monks done right (both the shoes themselves and guys wearing them).  Shed a tear with me as we bring in the weekend.

As with most things, Sid Mashburn does it better than anyone else.  At the moment I don't happen to have 59,500 pennies laying around to spend on shoes so I guess these will have to wait.  Apparently this shoe requires 200 seperate "operations" to make, which is about 199 more than any other shoe I currently own.

The British brand Loake makes a pretty good double monk model known as the Blackfriar.  It's available for around $240, and is looking like my most viable option.  My man David, who is Astor & Black's rep. down in Charlotte (and "the south" for that matter), apparently has these in stock so I have to swing by the showroom soon and get up close and personal with these.

As far as wearing a double monk is concerned, a confidence with one's self is pretty necessary.  These are not your everyday shoes and people will probably have some questions (most likely of the "where the hell did you get those shoes" variety).  Even though the double monk is a pretty dressy shoe, it can be worn with chinos or jeans to add a real punch to your everyday garb.  I mean, in my eyes, if you're going to spend at least 300 bucks you want to wear these as much as possible.  European men know what's up when it comes to double monks and should be your go to inspiration when it comes to making them work on a day to day basis.  Check out these pics from The Sartorialist...


Monday, September 21, 2009

Fall Looks: Setting the Bar

[Pictured: "On the Street....Perfect RL, NYC". Courtsey of Scott Schuman aka The Sartorialist.]

The best look I have seen this fall comes from a street shot done by the great Scott Schuman aka The Sartorialist (who partly inspired this very blog's name). This gentleman is doing exactly what I am recommending this fall (see: two posts ago)...blending both the traditionally refined and the classically rugged. Here we've got wingtips, a spread collar button down, a tweed vest, chinos, and a tie complete with tie bar topped off with a great military fatigue jacket.  What a great example of a wonderful, yet average fall outfit taken to the next level with the inclusion of an unexpected element. This outfit says so many things, but all I can say is "wow". This, ladies and gentlemen, is a perfect outfit, and THE perfect fall look as far as Sartorially Inclined is concerned. Finding the right balance somewhere in-between is no easy task, but when done right the juxtaposition of refined and rugged brings it all together. Talk about setting the bar high...